March 13, 2012
Sourdough Hamburger Buns
I have no idea if this going to work. I had some fresh sour dough starter: 4 oz Bread flour and 4 oz water, 100% hydration in my counting system. I was going to make my normal go to, never fail baguettes when I decided I really should make hamburger buns (rolls) because I don’t have any buns and I will need some. I still need baguettes but I can them without thinking.
Of course the first rule to observe is that sour dough doesn’t behave as commercial yeast so toss out the time lines. Secondly, “rolls” have a high amount of butter, milk, oil and sugar and a egg or two. In the margins of my cookbook I had scribbled, “too sweet” on the yeasted recipe I last used. Dial back the sugar.
I don’t use a stand mixer. It’s just the way I roll. Mix and knead by hand, stretch and fold every 30-40 minutes until it feels right. A dough with high fat content? I’m not certain what “feels right” is. That’s not quite true. I know what I think is right but only baking and eating can tell if I know’ed it enough.
Sandwich bread, rolls and buns don’t have big open holes. Hydration seems to be around 55% and the fat in mix is going work against the gluten strand formation. Still you want enough gluten so it doesn’t look like a flapjack when baked.
- 8 oz of happy sourdough starter 100% (equal weights of flour and water, 4 oz of each)
- 10 oz of bread flour
- 3.5 oz of water (not a typo)
- 1/4 C to 1/3 C of powdered milk.
- 1 tsp salt
- 1 Tbl sugar
- 2 Tbl melted butter
- 1 beaten egg, medium size
Mix that up by hand. That turned out to a very stiff dough until I remembered to add the egg and then it went to way too wet to knead. Let sit for 20 minutes and try kneading vigorously with a 1/4+ C of bench flour for a few minutes. Much Better now. I did a stretch and fold after 30 minutes and set the timer for another 30 minutes.
18 minutes later I went to the kitchen for a beer and checked on the dough. It was ready for another stretch and fold and when I did that I realized it had to be balled up for a nap in the fridge. I was not expecting it to develop that quickly, but it was very active sour dough and stuff happens. How did I know it was done hours before I expected? It’s the mythical touch. This dough can not, won’t or should not build more gluten. You have to fail a lot to get the touch.
I said “into the fridge” and that is not accurate. The gluten was developed as much as I think it should be. I let it rest on the counter for another hour while I wrote this. Now its acting like sour dough. Slow to rise. Do I know when to put it in the fridge overnight and how long to let it warm up the next day before shaping and baking? Nope, no way, no sir. I can not tell you how many minutes or hours.
If you make enough bread, you just know when and what to do and even then you’ll be half way maybe mostly correct.
[Next Day]
I made 9 rolls/buns out that batch. Should have done 6 or 7. Shaping is not my long suite. Bake at 400F for 12-18 minutes (closer towards the 18 mark, IMO).
The buns tastes fine but there really isn’t any sourdough flavor left under the layers of milk, butter and egg. Dialing back the sugar was the right idea, though. For what it is a fat laden white bread, it’s pretty good. Not more better enough to do the sourdough slow dance but we learn when we try.


